Squalane has become one of the most popular skincare ingredients in recent years, and it is highly sought after for its remarkable properties. Squalane (C30H62) is a molecule that mimics our skin’s natural ability to self-repair and retain moisture through lipid activity.
As an organic emollient and protector, it is favoured in the cosmetics industry for its outstanding performance and well-recognized benefits to the skin.
Frequently found in many moisturizing products, squalane has captured the attention of skincare enthusiasts. Today, we’ll delve into the benefits of squalane and explore the best ways to incorporate it into your skincare routine.
What is Squalane?
Squalane is a moisturizing skincare ingredient renowned for its efficacy due to its similarity to squalene, a naturally occurring compound in the human body.
Squalane is a stable hydrocarbon derived from the hydrogenation of squalene.
Unlike squalene, which has an unsaturated carbon chain structure and is prone to oxidation, squalane has a saturated carbon chain with no chemical double bonds, making it more stable and an ideal component for skincare products.
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Differences Between Squalene and Squalane
Squalene is a naturally occurring oily compound found in the human body, as well as in plants and animals, particularly in infant sebum and plant oils such as olive, soybean, and sunflower oils.
It is a vital component of the sebum layer, which helps retain skin moisture and prevents evaporation, thereby protecting the skin barrier. However, squalene levels in the body decrease with age, leading to dry skin.
Due to its instability and susceptibility to oxidation, squalene is not suitable for direct use in cosmetics as it may degrade. Therefore, squalene is typically hydrogenated to produce squalane.
Squalane, a low-viscosity oil with higher stability and resistance to oxidation, is more suitable for use in commercial skincare products. It is gentle on the skin and enhances moisture retention and self-repair abilities, minimizing the risk of irritation or allergic reactions.
| Squalane | Squalene | |
| Characteristics | Highly stable, skin-friendly, and easy to preserve | Unstable and prone to oxidation |
| Presence in the Human Body | Trace amounts | Relatively higher concentrations |
| Skin Irritation | Stable and less likely to cause irritation | Irritating, potentially leading to acne and breakouts |
| Benefits | Moisturizing, antioxidant, wrinkle-reducing, and anti-aging | Moisture retention in the skin |
Common Types of Squalane in the Market
Natural Squalane
In the cosmetics industry, natural squalane, particularly plant-derived squalane, is the preferred choice due to its alignment with the trend toward natural product development. It is primarily sourced from the unsaponifiable fraction of olive oil but can also be extracted from other plants such as soybeans and sunflowers.
Plant-based squalane is a high-quality ingredient widely used in cosmetic formulations and can be quickly verified for its plant origin through carbon-13 testing.
Historically, squalene was mainly extracted from shark liver oil and used as a dietary supplement; however, most marine-sourced squalene has been replaced by plant-based squalene, with marine sources now used mainly in the pharmaceutical industry, especially in vaccines.
Synthetic Squalane
Synthetic squalane is produced through two main methods:
One involves petrochemical synthesis using terpene compounds to create high-purity squalane;
The other employs biotechnology, where genetically modified microorganisms ferment sugar molecules to produce squalene, which is then chemically synthesized and dimerized to obtain squalane.
This biotechnological method is more sustainable and reduces reliance on traditional petrochemical processes, offering an environmentally friendly production alternative.
Three Key Benefits of Squalane
Hydration and Moisture Retention
Squalane is one of the oils closest in composition to human sebum, offering excellent oxygen-carrying properties. It integrates seamlessly with the skin’s natural oils, forming a highly permeable protective barrier on the skin’s surface.
This barrier not only prevents moisture loss and nourishes the skin but also ensures that the skin can effectively exchange water and air without feeling greasy.
By maintaining the balance between the skin and its sebum, squalane provides deep hydration and enhances the skin’s ability to absorb moisture and other nutrients.
Regular use can improve various skin issues such as sagging, dryness, flakiness, roughness, and dullness, helping the skin regain its softness.
Anti-Ageing
Squalane boasts impressive antioxidant properties, which contribute to its effectiveness in penetrating the skin, promoting the proliferation of basal skin cells, and inhibiting the oxidation of skin lipids. Since oxidation is a major factor in skin ageing, squalane helps to delay the signs of ageing by combating oxidative damage.
Skin Repair and Cellular Restoration
Squalane accelerates the repair of the epidermis and damaged cells. Its ability to open pores, enhance microcirculation, and accelerate skin cell metabolism aids in the healing of damaged tissues.
For individuals with thin stratum corneum or facial redness, skincare products containing squalane are among the best choices for reducing redness and thickening the skin’s outer layer.
Squalane Safety and Potential Risks
Squalane itself is generally safe for most users, but attention should be paid to additional ingredients in skincare products. As noted by experts, the risk of topical products often comes from added components like fragrances, preservatives, and dyes, which can trigger allergic contact dermatitis, eczema, or reactions in sensitive skin.
Potential Skin Issues
While squalane is generally considered a non-greasy, lightweight oil, overuse or improper cleansing can lead to pore blockage, hindering normal skin respiration and metabolism. This can create an environment conducive to bacterial growth, potentially causing folliculitis, acne, or other skin issues, characterized by redness, pimples, or pustules, along with pain and itching, which can impact appearance and quality of life.
Allergic Reactions
Though rare, some individuals may still have allergic reactions to squalane, such as itching, redness, rash, or more severe symptoms like oozing or erosion. Those with known allergies to squalane should avoid products containing this ingredient to prevent unnecessary health risks.
Excessive Oiliness and Imbalance
For individuals with naturally oily skin, using squalane may exacerbate oiliness due to its similarity to the skin’s own sebum. Overuse can lead to an excessively thick oil layer on the skin’s surface, diminishing the feeling of freshness and breathability, and potentially worsening pore blockage and related skin issues.
How to Avoid Side Effects of Squalane
- Use Moderately: Follow the product instructions and control the amount used to avoid over-application.
- Thorough Cleansing: Ensure your skin is thoroughly cleaned after using squalane to prevent residue from clogging pores.
- Stay Hydrated: Maintain adequate skin hydration to balance oil production and reduce greasiness and acne.
- Patch Test: Conduct a patch test before using new products to check for any allergic reactions to squalane or other ingredients.
- Rotate Skincare Products: Avoid using the same product for extended periods to prevent skin dependency or reduced effectiveness.
How to Choose Squalane Skincare Products
Squalane primarily functions as a moisturizer, water-locking agent, and anti-ageing ingredient. It is often combined with components such as peptides and amino acid moisturizers and added to anti-ageing creams and hydrating serums.
When selecting squalane skincare products, consider the source of the ingredient, particularly third-generation squalane derived from sugarcane, which offers a lighter, more effortless care for the skin.
Opting for squalane products from reputable international brands ensures high quality and effectiveness, as these products are subject to rigorous research and testing and often emphasize sustainability and environmental friendliness in their production processes.
Additionally, check other ingredients in the squalane products and avoid those containing alcohol, silicones, fragrances, dyes, or animal-derived components, which can irritate the skin. Choose gentle formulations to ensure optimal skin care.
If you are seeking high-quality squalane, Focusherb is a reliable choice. We offer 100% naturally sourced squalane to help create professional skincare products.
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